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Bang Out a Carbeth


#183

The life of a grad a student!


#184

I did the sleeves first and now working on the body. Trying to figure out how to estimate yarn required after the sleeves are joined to body so I know how much length I can add without running out of yarn. Like, is it 50% of the sleeves and body up to underarms? More. Anyone have an idea?


#185

I keep coming back to look at this - the color is just so gorgeous, and it looks so soft and cozy! :heart:


#186

I’ve never done a thumbhole sweater, but I love the idea! Is there a trick with figuring out where to place the thumbhole?


#187

waiting for yarn and excited to get started. will be setting aside my shetland cobweb shawl to join in. this is my first ever kal.


#188

Thanks - I’m loving it too. This yarn sat in a bag in deep stash for the longest time because I couldn’t visualize using it it in anything til now. I think because I couldn’t get the original pattern leaflet out of my mind (in my mum’s defence, the 80s were a different country…I love the shoulder pads especially!). I’m glad the yarn is finally getting its day in the sun.


#189

Hi, Kate Davies did a blog post about how to figure out extra yarn requirements here. Full disclosure - it does involve knitting a swatch though :grin:


#190

Really love this! I may need to attempt my own copycat Carbeth😊


#191

So 80s! Back then I has a mohair sweater like that (mohair held double with a smooth wool) with intarsia motifs (not homemade). Shoulder pads. I wore it with a long sweeping wool skirt not at all unlike the one in Kate’s Carbeth picture.


#192

I just did kfb increases for both. I like the little bars.


#193

I dug into the archives to find this
You’d need to work the ribbed section flat and leave an inch and a half of the seam open.

If you choose to do this, cast on 2 extra stitches for the selvedge.
Keep the extras in stockinette stitch (right side) - K1, pattern, end K1 (wrong side) - P1, pattern, end P1
When you join into the round at the beginning of the stockinette section, SSK, knit to the last 2, k2tog. This will push the extra stitches to the back which makes the join/seam invisible


#194

Probably there’s a trick for fancy sleeves, but since these are basically just tubes (my increases were invisible), I’d think you could just position things properly when you get to the Three-Tube Situation.
I ditched the thumbhole plan when it turned out I had only half the yardage Ravelry’s database said I did. Labels? Who reads labels?


#195

So glad to read this as I have a sleeve going and I think I will maybe skip the last two increases …


#196

Houston, we’ve got a problem. I am really only propping up the knitting, not stretching it at all. I’m thinking this sweater won’t get smaller once it’s blocked and also, I’m not sure I’m the person who could rock such a huge, bulky weight, cropped sweater. The trajectory is being recalculated.


#198


On to the sleeves.


#199

I’m making good progress! I’ve been agonizing over whether to add a little extra length to the body. I wish there were an overall shoulder to hem length on the diagram. I’m thinking that if the body is 8 inches, and the yoke depth is 8 inches to the ribbing, then from my neck to bottom hem is 16–right? That would be perfect. Just below my belly button. Am I figuring this correctly?


#200

I think that the yoke is the depth of 1/2 of the sleeve stitches (after holding the underarm stitches) at whatever gauge you are knitting (3.5 by the pattern)

I’m now reciting ‘Jabberwocky’ in my head <3


#201

I’m in as I’ve finished the shawl I was working on and my yarn for this arrived yesterday. Got perfect gauge with size 10. Loving this super wash Extra fine Merino in Grass.


#202

I always understood it to be 30% of the yarn was the sleeves but I think with her original cropped body size it may be closer to 35-40. That would leave 65 or so for the body/yoke…


#203

I too am at the point where I’m getting wobbly about the length of the body. I’m a 20cm of body which should be nearly there according to the pattern…but measuring from actual underarm to about top of hip or a little higher suggests I need another 10cm. And I am very shortwaisted - another reason I was inclined to give this a go! So I’m going to keep going until it gets a bit longer and see what happens. I’m mindful that some of the comments from knitters on Ravelry who added length later regretted it because they lost the lovely drapey bell shape.

I’m also wondering, when sussing out how long it might be from underarm to cast-on edge how close to the actual underarm I should measure. (ie there’s abound to be some allowance there as well.)

Any thoughts from the panel would be very welcome! :smiley: