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Bang Out a Hadley: Modifications?


#1

I’m curious to know if anyone is making modifications?


#2

I am curious to know if anyone is going to modify the waist area. I was thinking about doing a straight hem maybe a rolled hem? As opposed to the ribbing.


#3

Hmmm… I do like the idea of a straight hem, but I’m not an experienced enough sweater knitter to be brave enough to try!


#4

I’m doing a bit less shaping for the waist.
After the ribbing, I will knit to a total of 4 or 5 inches and then begin to decrease
My dec round : K4, k2tog, k to 2 st before m, ssk, sm, k to next m, sm, k2tog, k to 6 st before m, ssk, k4 then repeat all once more. Knit 5 rounds.
I’ll do that 3 more times, see where I am in relation to my waist.
To increase : K4, M1L, k to m, M1R, sm, k to m, sm, M1L, k to 4 before m, M1R then repeat all once more. Knit 9 rounds.
K to m M1R, sm, k to m, sm, M1L, k to m. sm then repeat all once more. Knit 9 rounds.
Repeat both sets of increases again.

If you desire a more straight/boxy shape, you could decrease at each side of the side marker, OR on either side of the waist marker twice. I’de probably do it a few inches from the rib, then 9 rounds later.
At the hem the stitch count is 8 stitches more than at the underarm.


#5

Thank you for the ideas and shaping. My problem is I’m curvy and when something hits my hips, as in the ribbing on a sweater, it comes to a complete halt! Then it blouses around it makes me look like I have a spare tire :confused:

But I research different ways to do the hem area without ribbing. In fact until my eyes were burning last night LOL. I did find a post or to stating that ribbing was necessary to keep the sweater from stretching out from the hang.

I found a suggestion for the Twining Stitch, and one called the Chinese waitress girl or something along those lines, as well as regular hem. Even one that could do the estatonion braid. Today is D-Day, and as soon as I get back from walking my sweet pup I will be starting and I am no closer to knowing what I’m going to do on that first row then I was last night.


#6

Color Work - Rounds 11 and 12.
I’m on the sleeve and now working round 11.
I’ve modified the colorwork to knit, slip the stitch back to the left needle purl-wise, and then purl into what is the lone color stitch on round 12 - then I will slip that stitch purl-wise as I work round 12 in just the MC, thus avoiding floats of 11 stitches in the CC on round 12.


#7

This is an interesting idea. To make the classic lopapeysa Riddari more feminine and not bunchy at the bottom, I knit a few rounds of stockinette, then about 6 rounds of 2 x 2 ribbing, then back to stockinette for the body of the sweater. The rolled edge at the bottom stretched out the ribbing so that it didn’t pull in. I really liked the effect and did it for 3 women’s Riddaris.


#8

That’s an great idea, combining slip stitches with fair isle! I think I may try that as well. I hadn’t read ahead to the sleeves, though sometimes I do start there (kind of a large gauge swatch).

I’m fine with going over 5 stitches with my colorwork, depending on what sort of fiber I’m using, but I see on rows 13 & 14 there is a 7 stitch jump, and there I would use the Philosopher’s Wool method of weaving in the color I am carrying behind the work. There are video’s out there explaining how to do it I’m sure.

I’m thinking that I may modify the neckline, as a turtleneck may overheat me a bit! I’ll cross that bridge when I knit to it.


#9

Brilliant idea Kay. I can’t wait to see everyone’s personalized Hadley…


#10

You can always use Elizabeth Zimmerman’s advice and Just Cast On - knit the whole sweater while you contemplate what kind of a hem you want, then go back in at the end and pick up the stitches and knit down from there.

That’s what I’m doing, as I am Far Too Indecisive for my own good!


#11

I haven’t done that. Is it a provisional cast on? Wouldn’t the ‘v’ then be upside down or am I over thinking this


#12

Kay,

I like that idea, I will search for a pix.


#13

I’m pear shaped and small on top, so if I knit a straight size according to the bust measurement the waist and hips would be way too snug. I did a bunch of math to grade between different sizes to get the finished measurements I prefer. (I took the measurements from other sweaters that fit me well.) I’m doing less waist shaping, narrower sleeves, and a looser neckline. Hope it all works out.


#14

I’m so glad I saw this before I cast on! I’m doing this!


#15

You are an inspiration!!! I usually just cast on and keep going :joy:


#16

I used the long tail method - any cast on should leave loops you can pick up and knit from later on. I’m not sure what you mean by the ‘v’ being the wrong way … Sorry!


#17

When the Shape Waist section starts there are 110 stitches for front and back for my size. I assume the side marker divides the front and back evenly? It seems I placed the marker earlier in the knitting but it seemed to have disappeared. THANKS


#18

The front and back should have the same number of stitches, and I see that 110 is the division number for the 4th size. Yay!


#19

I’m hoping to modify the waist shaping and looking for a little help. I’m knitting the small but want 160 stitches at the waist line instead of 148. Would it be fine to just skip one of the decreases?

Also, I missed the original decrease round before the waist shaping starts. Is it important or can I keep going with the decreases? I’m worried about a potential bump of material right above the ribbing.

This is my first full size sweater and so far I’m having a blast. Thanks for the help!


#20

It sounds like you’ve begun your modification already :wink:
Remember that fewer decreases = fewer increases to reach your target at the underarm