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Bang Out a Hadley: Modifications?


#21

I’m very short waisted, so lessening the waist shaping to 20 stitches in 2 sets 12, then 8. Then one set of increases will get me to the correct number of stitches.


#22

I’m at the point where I’m obsessing a bit about waist shaping. After measuring my favorite sweater, I’ve decided I want three decrease rounds rather than four. I’m not sure whether I should start the decrease rounds later or increase the number of even rounds between decrease rounds. Is anyone else planning something similar?


#23

I did two, but I’m very short waisted, so started as planned and lessened the rows between decreases and increases. I think you need to look at he schematic in relation to your body.


#24

Thanks for your response. I had stalled on Hadley with knitting time available tonight!

I’m a bit long waisted, and all Hadley’s measurements other than the waist are very close to my favorite pullover. I think gradual decreases would work best. I can always put my work on waste yarn and compare the shaping between the two sweaters.


#25

I’ve definitely done that but then end up disappointed with fit. Happy knitting


#26

I did the same and increased the number of rounds between decrease rounds. Can’t really tell by trying it on at this point if that was the best solution though. Seems fine.


#27

I just finished the waist decreasing for the size 40 34/ - 42 3/4 and have 172 stitches on the needles ready to knit the next 5 rounds even. This issue is I ended up with 85 stitches on the front and 87 on the back as follows between markers:
Front left to right: 29-28-28 Back left to right 29-29-29. Is there something I should fix? Thanks!


#28

I answered this question for you in the other place it’s posted.


#29

SAAAAAME!! It usually fits someone but it’s always disappointing to finish and wash something meant for me and realize it’s never, ever going to fit me :joy:


#30

Kay had some great things to say about sleeves today. I knit my cuffs one at a time, then finagled them on to a 32" needle to complete them both at the same time. Annoying. But then, they’re complete and more than likely they’ll match.
My cast on was 48 stitches, and I agree that 48 could work for nearly everyone. If you’ve begun your body, pin the hem together at 48 stitches and test the theory.
I also made my first 2 increases within the pattern, but - I put them on either side of the center motif :


#31

This is brilliant!

If I were starting over I’d have cast on 48 for my sleeve instead of 52…


#32

I am definitely happy that I frogged and started over with 48. The cotton doesn’t look as put together as the wool, but that’s to be expected I guess


#33

I’m having trouble with the start to my fair isle pattern on my sleeves. I’m supposed to have 53 stitches and a pattern repeat of 12. What do I do with the other 5 stitches? Making size 42.


#34

Although Kay was brilliant enough with the Fair Isle pattern on the sleeves with 53 stitches, I was not. She got a cute little face out of it. I got a straight line of 10 stitches of main color l, which was a roadway of Madness to me. I frogged it all out, then downsized to the 48 stitches and went from there


#35

Thank you. I will go back and do 48. I’ve wasted 2 nights knitting trying to figure this out. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


#36

I’ve moved stitches to waste, compared to a finished sweater and tried it on. It is hard to tell about fit at this point, as you say, but I think it is fine.

Now to adjust for those extra stitches (12) while increasing for the bust and sides. This seems fairly straight forward – 3 increase rounds for bust shaping with extra round between increase rounds and 1 increase round for side shaping on the 11th round.

I have zero experience with sweater mods. I have a rather small bust and think gradual increases makes sense. Do you mind me asking how you adjusted for the extra stitches after the waist shaping?


#37

Beautiful increase with the design!


#38

I did fewer bust increases. I figured out the number of stitches I needed for the bust point and then adjusted the increases from the waist point to the bust point accordingly. Hope that makes sense.


#39

I’ve finished the first 2 rounds of waist decreases, and just noticed that with the smooth, non-fuzzy yarn I’m using, my SSKs stick out like sore thumbs, while my K2togs are almost invisible. I’m switching to all K2togs, stat! Don’t care about the slant! (Wish I’d noticed sooner but no way am I ripping back.)

May do some experimenting before I get to the increase rounds, to see which is less noticeable, M1L/M1Rs or KF&B …


#40

Yes, that makes sense. I’ve just finished my bust/side shaping similarly.

I was so pleased with my progress, until I noticed I had dropped a stitch just before the first bust increase. Argh!!!

I haven’t decided whether rip back or try to fudge a repair in some way.