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Granito: A Sweater by Joji Locatelli


#81

You are picking up 1 stitch in each cast on of the back shoulders.


#82

I know that. But it for the right shoulder, it says to start at the neckline edge, which is in the middle of the cast on stitches. My question was, how do I know where to start? I decided to start at the armhole edge, pick up but not knit the 46 stitches required, slide them to the other end of my needle, and then knit them. It seems to have worked. But either the directions aren’t written clearly, or I’m still missing something in my interpretation of them.

Judy


#83

I did understand the question. I arrived at this answer after reading that the left and right back shoulder directions have you cast on and work all stitches for 2 or 3 rows - before building the back neck.
I would like to add that I’m only reading the pattern (in order to assist with moderation of the topic), and not knitting it so perhaps that small amount of work/depth is not enough to make the shoulder vs. neck clear.
I think that your approach to figuring it out was intuitive!


#84

Wow, Nell, you are a knitting genius if you can make sense of these directions without knitting them. I have learned to get a rough idea of what’s what by reading the whole pattern through, but I can’t get my head around the details until I’ve reached that spot. I think in terms of knitting, I’m a kinetic learner; I have to feel it to understand it. I’m also an audio learner – I can look and look at a pattern and not understand what I’m supposed to do next, but if I read it aloud slowly, I’l almost always get it right away – I have to HEAR the directions to understand them.


#85

I just cast on the back yesterday after checking my gauge. I am a little tight but going to stay with it. I read on Ravelry that one knitter went down a needle size when knitting flat and switched up a size when knitting in the round. I’m going to try that as I purl looser. I’m also going to use German short rows. …a new technique for me.
Two friends are knitting Granito with me…we are all using Milo…I love it!
So glad to find this group…as I can see I will have questions soon. Has anyone made the neck opening a little bit larger?


#86

I think you did a smart solution.


#87

I put my Granito in time out while I knit the Short Beach Shawl but am working on it again. I’m about half way through the first sleeve. I LOVE this pattern. I think it will be my favorite sweater and am already thinking of another in a solid color. Using fingering yarn for sweaters is the way to go. I’m working mine on 3s, I used German short rows, and the video MDK shared re ssk [Patty Lyons] was very timely - best ssk I’ve seen …thanks MDK! I also made adjustments in the body by adding stitches because it wasn’t as loose as I wanted it.


#88

I just joined the front to the back. Finally knitting in the round! But remember, friends, that when you come to the markers, you slip the stitches between them on one row and knit them on the next. Ask me how I know, and why I was up so late last night fixing “a mistake” that was actually four mistakes.


#89

I’m not confident that I can remember from one row to the next whether to slip or knit those two stitches, and with a dark-colored yarn, I can’t necessarily see what to do. So I’ve figured out a way to tell on which rows I should slip the stitches and on which rows I should knit them. I use a plastic safety-pin style marker (so I can move it), and on the stitch before the first marker, if it’s a knit row I put the marker into that very stitch. On the next row, I leave the marker in that stitch (so it ends up in the row below) and slip the stitches between the markers. So far it has worked (two rows!)


#90

I’m finally done with the body and working on the pockets. I don’t like sewing, even just to sew on pockets, so I’m knitting them on as I go using the method I learned from the lovely Little Petrichor pattern. Basically, you put the whole body on scrap yarn before you start the hem ribbing. Then you weave a double-pointed needle up each side of where the pocket will go, under every other row’s purl bumps, and then you knit one stitch off one of those needles at the end of each pocket row. When you get down to the hem, both sides of the pockets are already attached! Then you put the bottom of the pocket on a holder, and when you’re done with both pockets, you put the body stitches back on your circular, and on the first row of the hem, you k2tog with the bottom of the pocket to close it off.


#91

I’m kind of sick…when I got to the point where I was to join everything together to join in the round, I realized that I’d made some horrible mistake, and I will most likely have to rip almost everything out. I really cannot even figure out what I did wrong, so it may be best to just start all the way over. I could not even look at it anymore. I had to put it away and work on something easy and that I can memorize (Ballband dish cloths!!!) UGGGHHH!!! I hate making errors, especially when I don’t even know what I’ve done wrong!


#92

Oh no. You have my sympathies…


#93

Hi Granito knitters- I want to use the Helical Striping technique in the body of my Granito ( insufficient original yarn sparked this solution) but I’m not sure how one works the technique over 2 or 3 rows of each color. I posted this question on A Year of Techniques page but thought someone here might have an idea.
Thanks


#94

just checking in. i did cast on my granito, and got several rounds past the point where you join everything to work in the round when i decided that i just didn’t like the gauge i was working. ripped it all out. went up a needle size, and then … then summer became HOT and HUMID and i couldn’t stand to even have wool yarn in the same room.

so in the hibernate mode it went, and out came all the cotton, cotton bamboo, cotton and silk for several weeks. thank everything the humidity dropped yesterday, as did the temperatures - currently wearing a sweatshirt and sweatpants (!!) and so out came Granito again, and wowsers.

i’m loving it. this is gonna be one kicka$$ sweater.


#95

Just finished my second sleeve and now all I have left is the neckband. It felt like I got through the body of the sweater so quickly. But then I got stuck on “sleeve island” for a while. It certainly didn’t help that it was really hot and humid for a while here in the Northeast! It was almost unbearable to have a pile of wool on my lap, even in air-conditioning! But now it has cooled down and I am plugging along to the finish line. I have tried it on (several times) and the fit is going to be perfect for me. Such a wonderful benefit of knitting top-down. This will be a staple in my fall/winter wardrobe. I am so excited.


#96

Helical knitting is a great way to intermingle 2 skeins! You’d only work 1 round of each color with this technique though.


#97

For those who are farther behind than I am… Pay close attention (as I DIDN’T) to the paragraph on page 5 titled JOIN BODY. It designates a new place for the beginning of a round, which will serve you well when you get to the pockets. I finally figured out what to do with the help of a Knit Night friend who works in a yarn store, but it would have helped me a lot if I had followed the directions. Now cruising ahead on the outside of the pockets/body. I’ve already got my next project figured out, so I’m eager to finish this one!


#98

I have been so excited to start this sweater but it’s my first attempt at a top down, w&t, in the round sweater! I’ve started once and ripped it all out and I am now again confused! I’m on page 3 after joining the shoulders. I’m in the 2 repeated short rows before plunging ahead to just regular old knitting. So, my question is, when I am repeating these rows it seems like I am making the neck section longer. Is that right? I’m basically knitting the same 36+3 stitches for 10 rows (size large). Is that right? I would hate to rip it out again!


#99

Hello Granito fellows! I have finally cleared various must-finish projects from the deck, I have procured a few skeins of Milo (thank you MDK for the easy-peasy, swift delivery) and my swatch has been properly soaked and blocked. Now comes the second phase: intense pre-cast-on research. I am curious as to how everyone has figured out which size to cast on for, given the ample amount of ease recommended by Joji Locatelli. I haven’t found much on the subject among notes on Ravelry. I’ve been measuring a favorite store bought sweater although it doesn’t quite have the same style as Granito; none of my sweaters does, exactly. Any word of wisdom appreciated.


#100

I apparently didn’t make any notes about what I decided but I went with large. I am about a 38" bust but my shoulders are big so I almost always make a M/L or L in sweaters. This is similar in shape to her Boxy which I made last year and love. I never make anything fitted so I guess I am fine with plenty of ease :slight_smile: Not sure that counts as wisdom but that’s what I did.