And maybe this is obvious, but it wasn’t to me: Put the sticky note above the row you’re knitting, not below. Somehow it helps keep your eyes from wandering to another row.
When I’m trying to follow a chart, I use highlighter tape right under the row I’m knitting. Since it has the same glue as post it notes, it can be used over and over again. A tip I learned from the woman who sold me my first roll (at Stitches West) is to fold under the very end of the tape, sticking it to itself. This makes a tab that makes it much faster to pull off and reposition the tape for the next row.
Most office supply stores seem to carry the tape these days. I bought an assortment of colors on Amazon a few years back, so it’s pretty easy to find.
Brilliant! Can’t wait to try it.
Does anybody have tips for working with linen and cotton yarn? I made one cotton linen top and my finishing half unraveled or just looks awful.
My little trick for remembering whether I am on an increase or a plain knit row:
If my clunky ring is on my right hand, I just knit, if it is on my left hand, I increase. I have been wearing a semi-large signet ring for 48 years. My body knows when it is on the wrong hand. As soon as I finish the increases I switch my ring then I know what to do when I come around to the markers next time. When the ring is on the wrong hand–increase. On the hand where I usually wear it I just knit. Just don’t forget to switch your ring faithfully. My ring is currently on the wrong finger; when I pick up my knitting today I will be on an increase row.
Sorry-- this is so many words for such a little tip. Merry and Happy to all.
Another way to remember M1R is that R stands for rear and a rear is at the back.
What happened to it? Did it snag and then go to pieces (ie, unravel)? It can be frustrating.
I’ve knit a couple of scarves and some toys out of el cheapo cotton yarn, and while the yarn is splitty, and can be harder on the hands, they all turned out well.
More details or perhaps a photo would be helpful.
Um, you are a GENIOUS!
I usually cut off the ‘note’ part of the sticky note off and just use the ‘sticky’ part to reduce the risk of throwing it in my bag and losing my spot forever (@stitchholder) but highlighter tape! Ohhh, I need to add that to my craft budget!!
(haha, for February… I accidentally donated 6 months of craft budget and am still waiting so I can buy things again!)
I usually just put it wherever the heck I’m feeling like, but this is actually a good idea! +1 for science!
(I also happen to be the kind of knitter that casts on in the middle of the night or after a few glasses, so I can use all the help I can get, come the next morning!!
My tip for today is for jogless stripes. The typical method mentioned for eliminating the jog is to knit one round with the new color, then knit the first stitch in the new color together with the stitch below it. The reason this works is that the color below is shortened by one stitch at the color change, so a ten row stripe is only 9 rows at the point of the color change. This is not noticeable at galloping horse distances. However, it can be noticeable for skinny stripes (2 or 3 rows) and it does not work for 1 row stripes.
If you are knitting skinny stripes (or are just obsessive about your jogs), you can try this method instead. When you have completed your first round of knitting in the new color, slip the first stitch in the new color, then continue knitting, either in that same color for a stripe that is 2 or more rows high or switching to another color. When you come around to the slipped stitch, knit it as you normally would: it is your new beginning of the round. The jog is almost imperceptible once you’ve worked in your ends. The only downside is the beginning of the round shifts to the left with each color change.
The hand-measurement technique is excellent, thank you!
I have a couple of tips for you:
Knit at a tight gauge. It will make the knitting a bit uncomfortable (as it already is with those fibers, anyway!) but you’ll end up with much better behaved pieces to sew up later.
Buy some “Fray Check” at the fabric store and use it to secure ends of yarn on the inside.
I have made many sweaters from linen, cotton, and blends thereof as I have a slight wool allergy on my neck. Generally they improve after washing. If the yarn is not shrinkable, they may improve considerably after machine washing. Linen is improved after machine drying, too, as it softens and individual stitches sort of sit better -some cottons look better after machine drying also. Ribbing doesn’t come out as well in cotton and linen. When working in ends in these fibers, be sure to go back through your sewing with the needle to secure, as cotton and linen doesn’t felt or stick to itself. I have nev er tried Fraycheck as suggested earlier but I bet it work…
I HAVE Fray Check but I never thought of that! Genius!
Thank you! One of my issues with plant fibers is that they are lumpy and visible where I’ve woven them in. Not sure if I should knot or what. I’ve sine read that I should split the plies and weave two in separately.
One problem with my sad linen blend top is that the lace at the neckline began coming apart. I’m considering just frogging the whole thing. I’m not sure how to secure the ends so they are invisible and secure. I guess Fray Check will be tried next time, and long ends or something?
I weave in the ends, then re-enforce them by sewing the join and the ends with matching thread
I’ve heard that using actual sewing thread and a needle to bind the ends together is the way to go.
Mind you, I’ve never tried it myself, but it’s supposed to work miracles
I’ll try it! The ends I wove in ended up looking lumpy on the right side. I guess using thread is a bit like splicing wool, where the two ends are bonded together and knit as one?
Like I said, I haven’t tried it with my actual hands, but I suppose you … overlap … and then … sew? Haha I bet Google knows!