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Bang Out a Revolution


#405

The weather forecasters suggest Seattle will be snowbound for the foreseeable, which will, among other things, mean plenty of knitting time.

I’ve been daydreaming about the finishing on my Swirligraphy. Daniela Gregis keeps coming to mind, though I haven’t pinpointed exactly why. For the collar and buttonband, I’m currently on the fence between an icord edge and a garter edge.


#406

I have washed many sweaters and that could certainly help if the yarn is very twisted, just personal preference I think.


#407

Yoke is done! Everything swirling in the right direction, too!


#408

Very late reply (and I’m sure @cainrdc has long since sorted this out!) , but I figured I’d toss this in just case it helps others…

There are different conventions for laying out a knitting pattern. The Revolutions patterns are following a layout style where all the “stitch patterns” are given up front, then the step-by-step instructions commence. This allows the step-by-step part to just say things like “Work Rnds 1–41 of Cable Pattern” or “Work in 2×2 Rib for 3 in” — or “Work rows 1-41 of Cable Chart” — instead of inserting the instructions for those motifs into the step-by-step. This tends to be a better approach when you’ve got both charted and written-out stitch patterns, since it lets everybody follow the same general instructions. In this case, one more benefit of this layout style is that it makes it easier to mix-and-match cable patterns between garments (you don’t have to extract the cable pattern from the step-by-step)!

What I think is maybe a bit confusing is the way the headings vary between patterns. E.g., the Ironworks Beret and Elaine’s Capelet each have a section called “Stitch Patterns” with sub-sections for “1x1 Rib” or “2x2 Rib” and “Cable Pattern”. The Calligraphy Cardigan just has a section called “Cable Pattern”, I’m guessing because it doesn’t include any ribbing or other stitch patterns. The Liberty Tree Pullover has a section called “Cable Pattern”, but that section actually also contains sub-sections for “2x2 Rib” and “1x1 Rib”, (so arguably it should have had headings arranged the same way as for the beret and capelet).

Anyway, in all cases, I think the stitch patterns are best thought of as still being part of the intro material, to be referred to later. The “real” instructions begin when you hit a heading with the name of a garment piece (“Hat”, “Yoke”, “Capelet”).


#409

Hello fellow bangers! I’m eeeasing my way into this (didn’t cast on my swatch until Feb 6), so I’m still in the planning stages. Possibly I am also quietly tapping rather than banging :upside_down_face:

I wasn’t even sure I was going to join in this year until somebody (can’t find the post anymore!) suggested the wild idea of trying gauge-shifty Mohonk to get a lighter weight sweater and I was :heart_eyes: . I’m aiming for a Liberty Tree in Mohonk (Cypress colorway). The yarn, of course, is sheepy and delicious.

So I’ve been swatching and I’ve got a Quandary:

My latest swatch is on size 7s, and I’m coming in pretty far under gauge: 20 sts = 3.625" / 28 rws = 3.5". But I like the fabric I’m getting on the 7s. I’ve got Interchange, and I’m cool with plugging the Liberty Tree chart into that worksheet, but here’s my question:

I really like the vertical proportions of the Liberty Tree cables on the sample. My denser row gauge will result in the cables ending 3/4" higher (and being more squat in general), and I’m not sure I’ll be happy with that.

If I were to lengthen the Liberty Tree chart itself :open_mouth:, what’s the most graceful way to do so? Or is there some other clever solution?


#410

Gorgeous. Love the color


#411

Clover calls them point protectors and stoppers. Available even at the big craft stores…inexpensive and different sizes! They can be a big help although I’ve even wound rubber bands around DP tips!


#412

I think that you could repeat rounds 28, 32, 36 and 38 to slightly extend the yoke to nearly the intended gauge length.


#413

Beautiful! What is the yarn?


#414

Cascade 220 Heathers, Mystic Purple. It’s a bit splitty to work with, but I like the way the swatch washed and blocked. It was very different from pre-blocking.


#416

Found my answer - searched for “center” and found that nellknits had replied to a similar question about placing the short rows. Decided to delete my long and involved question!


#417

I’ve used Cascade 220 in a project and liked working with it and the hat is used frequently and holds up quite well. I’m looking forward to seeing your finished project!


#418

Thanks, @nellknits! I’m gonna swatch that and see how it looks (I’ll post a pic if anyone’s interested)


#419

I did not get to cast on at 12:01 on Feb 1st. I still needed to print out Interchange so I could do the Baroque cable pattern on the Calligraphy body. I needed help from my System Administrator (husband). No printer setup on my computer.:smile:
Once it was printed, I cast on and got started. I have chosen Spud & Chloe Sweater in light grey. Snow here in the PNW and a sick day allowed for more knitting time. I was mostly finished with the short rows and decided that the purl rows were too loose, so out the short rows came.
I switched to another project for a day with a cotton based yarn to get the loose purl rows straightened out. All better now.
I am working on the body now. I am changing the increases to every inch to jump to the bigger size by the bottom of the sweater to accommodate my bottom heavy hourglass figure.
Love everybody’s pictures.


#421

To make it even more of a challenge, I waited until January 31st to ORDER my yarn (January is the longest month for a teacher who last got paid Dec. 15th…). It arrived Friday, Cascade 220 superwash, and I’m making steady progress on the cable chart due to some long car rides.


#422

This may be a question for @Norahgn, just confirming that on swirl topper the inside of the hem is meant to be done with the same size needle and not a smaller one.


#423

I did what the instructions say. However you may want to use 1 size smaller needle after the turning row for extra neatness.


#424

Gorgeous colorway!!


#425

Gorgeous! What kind of yarn are you knitting with? Thanks. Virginia


#426

Thank you.